Old Store Score
Loving yourself and your closet. 🌈🦄🫶🏼
I came of age at a time when women were encouraged to look skinny and have “naturally” wild hair. They wore loose flannel shirts and worn-out jeans with combat boots. The bedazzling decade of athletic bodies wearing bright sporty looks, body-conscious statements, and big shoulders was sadly in the rear view mirror.
For a while I had what can only be described as a style identity crisis. A little grunge, a little preppy, a little classic Americana (think Twin Peaks). I didn’t grow up with any sense of fashion (cue that photo of me at 13 in the dress that looked like Laura Ashley vomited up the garden on it–or at 21 in the ill-fitting gold lame gown I errantly wore to my first black tie event). I did not enjoy getting dressed. My closet was a reflection of this and my poor body image.
It took moving to Maine after nearly a decade in the uber chic cities of New York City and Los Angeles for me to make real progress with a healthier sense of self-esteem. For me to quiet my mind and learn to accept that my body is just fine even if I’m no longer able to maintain an average weight of 118-120 pounds (I’m a little over 5’6). The key has largely been being active in the natural world. Doing things I loved as a child and have rediscovered as an adult. Hiking in the mountains, snowshoeing, swimming, horseback riding. Things that require me to eat healthy portions of real food. I’ve been in a pretty good place for a while now.
Along the way I’ve discovered putting outfits together can be fun and embraced my own style. And a big part of that has been curating a collection of vintage pieces and mixing those in with my staples. My everyday is anchored in denim, neutral cashmere sweaters, white and black t-shirts. Sneakers and heeled boots. An array of jackets - a bit of leather a lot of faux fur and some old Hollywood style - plaid capes gifted to me by my late Aunt Emily mixed in with sensible super warm down coats.
When I'm feeling extra confident or feminine (or both!) I accessorize with colorful statement pieces. Usually earrings, a huge turquoise ring, gemstone beaded necklaces, or bangles. A lot of my bags have vintage scarves tied on them for an extra pop - even all those bookstore totes I love so much. It was Babe Paley who first and most famously casually tied scarves onto her bags - something I’m forever grateful for. And never underestimate the childlike joy of carrying a wicker basket. We’ve Jane Birkin and Dorothy from Oz to thank for that.
It’s sad and also gratifying that I am finally unapologetically me - that it took so long to get here. But I’m here and making the most of it. Spending time in places and with people who make me feel good. Secondhand stores are most certainly an adult playground filled with more often than not like-minded people, a strong youthful wind of adventure seeking - we’re on a treasure hunt! - kitschy decor and fabulous music. I feel supported not judged or pressured to buy something.
Yesterday I went to my favorite local vintage store Little Ghost and picked up another faux fur coat - I’m obsessed - and a denim jacket some Rolling Stones fan had customized. I twirled around in front of the mirror. These babies were 100% going home with me. When I went to pay - why by the register - what’s this - a whole rack of vests - why I’d never considered wearing a vest - but these were FUN. And the next thing I knew I was trying on this gray suede beaded number from the 1970s and discussing how I’d wear it with one of the shop owners. I’d found treasure! And with a spring in my step a smile on my face Thelma Houston playing in my head I exited wonderland for the gray landscape of a New England city in January.
Sustainability and budget
In addition to the Indiana-Jones-style adventure, vintage shopping is a way to build a wardrobe on a budget and also have a lower impact on the environment. Talk about COOL factors! You’re also more likely to find garments made in the U.S. which are of higher quality than what retailers sell now. I challenge you to see what you can get for $30 in a secondhand shop versus from a department store selling new ultra-fast, ultra-cheap clothing - and then which item(s) you wear more. Which one(s) make you happy and do you feel special in?
Pre-owned clothing sales in the United States are projected to reach $73 billion by 2028. The number of people who are reselling clothes was 36.2 million in 2020. Consumers who bought secondhand apparel for the first time in 2020 – a whopping 33 million . The data doesn’t lie: More and more people are coming around to the joy of thrifting.
Outside of purchasing apparel from a company with a design-build approach (meaning nothing is made until an order is confirmed) thrifting is one of the least wasteful ways to build a wardrobe. At a time when millions of tons of textiles are ending up in landfills, extending the cycle of use of garments sounds pretty smart.
Thrifting tips
First and foremost shop your closet. I’m all for a little retail therapy, and I’m certainly the last one to stop you from getting (sigh) another faux fur jacket or denim anything - but look at what you’re not wearing and why and treat that ailment. Pinterest has been my friend big time in this case!
Ok - so, are you ready to pound the pavement looking for your own twirl-inducing secondhand find? Before you set off on your quest, let me equip you with a few tips and tricks I’ve picked up over the years:
Set aside enough time in the day to go thrifting. Especially if you are going to a few places. Finding that treasured piece can take some time digging.
If you feel comfortable in something see yourself wearing it for years to come, and can afford it, buy it. Chances are it won’t be there when you come back.
If it’s going to make you go into debt don’t get it. There's no point in buying something you might end up resenting.
Put your money into shoes. Consider this–spend $50 on a pair of shoes you wear one or two years vs. spending $150 on a pair you wear for ten. Also, your feet will thank you.
Don’t buy anything, regardless of the cost, if it is not salvageable or if the fabric is poor quality and won't last. There’s only so much the best tailor can do. Budget in what you might spend on repairs.
Budget in dry cleaning for anything you can’t hand or machine wash.
Most secondhand shops have a social media presence where you can check out some of their stock in advance and figure out if that’s a place that fits your style and budget.
Favorite secondhand stores
The thrifting culture here in Portland, Maine is robust. In addition to Little Ghost there is Weekend Vintage, Find, Material Objects, and Ferdinand.
Screaming Mimi’s in New York City and Consignment Brooklyn have amazing stock. Don’t be intimidated by the term “luxury” at either of these stores. I’ve found some serious gems for under $100 at both.
Los Angeles has an exceptionally excellent secondhand scene. Check out The LA Times, LA Weekly, and Vogue for lists.
Don’t trust Ebay. Look, I love it for old Le Creuset and holiday flutes - but read the description. There’s a lot of new unused stuff on there.
And last but certainly not least - a cocktail with which to celebrate your triumphs in the thrifting market - a la Agatha Christie and the late dame Maggie Smith…
Between the Sheets 🍸
Ingredients:
1 ounce cognac
1 ounce light rum
1 ounce triple sec
1/4 ounce lemon juice, freshly squeezed
Garnish: flamed orange peel
Add the cognac, rum, triple sec and lemon juice into a shaker with ice and shake until well-chilled. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Express the oils from a flamed orange peel over the top of the drink, then discard the peel before serving.
For those who prefer something sans alcohol - how about ginger ale and a couple maraschino cherries in a nice glass? 🍒
Love this, even better the second time around 😉 glad you’ve arrived, it’s great having you here